With a new client, figuring out his fit is the first part of the process, and this stage can at times be tough, even for the most experienced stylist. We have a team of trained experts in our Stylist Success team who are there to help you if needed, and it’s always good to know you have a trusted member of our team to help you at the end of a phone, email, or text. If a man is more or less proportioned, it will definitely be a lot easier, but many men come to custom, because they can’t find the right fit for their body in the off-the-rack world. Navigating what I call a “tough fit” is always about setting expectations with a client, letting them know that it may take a few tries, but once you have nailed it, the world of J.Hilburn opens up to him with endless amounts of choices, year-round.

When a new client comes to you with a specific need, such as a Tuxedo for a wedding or a specific color in a suit, your focus should be on that need. Preparing ahead will help you feel ready and more confident. When I hear of new clients coming to J.Hilburn from other custom-made brands or tailors, they usually come to us for a suit first. What this Client may not be aware of is that our difference lies in our ability to customize every part of his wardrobe, from casual to formal. This presents an opportunity for him to think differently about custom menswear and outfitting by mixing pieces from various parts of his wardrobe. If he worked with a tailor before, he would have probably only been used to suiting and shirting, but his lingo, on the other hand, could be that of his tailor. He may seem to have more knowledge than the average guy about the cut, shape, and construction of his suits. I can confidently say that between our construction options of standard, soft, and deconstructed, we cover most tailoring schools.

Additionally, the options of half or fully lined can help create variants that truly cater to every seasonal and global tailoring school. Our Standard Construction reflects the Anglo-American school, which favors over-construction with strong shoulders and roundness throughout the sleeve head and body. Our Soft option, on the other hand, is Italo-European with a more contemporary look, softly letting fabric drape a little more naturally from a ‘low profile’ shoulder pad, less squared and following more the slope of a shoulder.

Deconstructed is similar to the Italian, Neapolitan school, which evolved over the last 50 years for lighter fabrics in hot climates and has become more and more popular due to its comfort and ease, beginning at the shoulder and chest with a natural unstructured look that for an expert’s eye is a symbol of Italian status, at least as far as tailoring is concerned.

I love things that are easy for our stylists to know and share when meeting new clients, and, added to the above, having a flair for finishing the styling with the right options is something we should all familiarize ourselves with. Lining choices and our beautiful selection of buttons are two easy skills to familiarize yourself with, all carefully selected to make tasteful, thoughtful choices that cater to every kind of client. Pocket choices, lapels, and style options are also in line with the majority of menswear choices, and there are no wrong choices here, just personal taste and style. Show off your skills as a stylist confidently in the knowledge that all of the beautiful fabrics and thoughtful options are curated to reflect and inspire the needs of a J.Hilburn client and also represent only the very best of the wider menswear market.